Returning to the Argentine Puna: Observations from the Salar de Olaroz-Cauchari [Research trip 02/2025]

Over the past days, the first part of my research trip took me to northern Chile, where I visited my colleague Hans Gundermann in San Pedro de Atacama. Hans, an anthropologist, has spent years studying the relationship between indigenous communities, lithium mining corporations, and the state at the Salar de Atacama. In 2022, we published a comparative analysis of lithium mining in Argentina and Chile in the Journal of Political Ecology, highlighting the greater vulnerability of indigenous communities on the Argentinean side due to weaker negotiating positions.

In the past few years, Hans has had the opportunity to keep his research up to date on the Chilean side. But neither of us had been to the Argentine Puna recently. Between 2018 and 2019, I spent a total of 11 months living in the indigenous communities of the Argentinean highlands. During that time, I conducted research for my doctoral dissertation, and co-produced the documentary Bajo La Sal with my friend Emiliano Bazzani. The region became a place where I built strong connections with people and had the chance to participate in their everyday lives, experiencing both resilience and rapid change firsthand.

Revisiting the Salar de Olaroz-Cauchari: A Shifting Landscape

I had been planning to return for some time to keep in touch with people. Covid, lack of funding and other projects got in the way. This is why Hans and I decided to cross the border into Argentina to update our impressions. It had been six years since my last fieldwork in the region, and I was eager to reconnect with old acquaintances and observe firsthand how the lithium industry had evolved.

Upon arrival, the effects of altitude quickly reminded me of the highland’s physical challenges—having battled a cold earlier in the trip, I struggled more than usual with acclimatization. Yet, the excitement of reconnecting with familiar faces and witnessing the transformations in these communities was more important. The sense of continuity and change was immediately visible, making this visit more than just a research endeavor—it was a personal journey through a place that had deeply influenced my academic and professional trajectory.

Minera Exar has opened its mine in 2023, located right across the street from the Sales de Jujuy mine.

Growth, Optimism, and the Risks of Dependency

One of the most striking changes was the scale of lithium mining operations. The Sales de Jujuy mine has expanded significantly, while Minera Exar has begun production in 2023. The economic impact was visible everywhere—new vehicles, infrastructure projects, and constructions in communities like Susques and Olaroz Chico signaled a period of growth. There was a noticeable sense of optimism, with many community members expressing more favorable attitudes toward the mining companies than a few years ago.

Olaroz Chico considers itself as “The host of mining”, so says the new entrance portal to the village.

In the past, the state was never particularly present in this region. However, since President Milei took office in December 2023, the absence of the state has become even more pronounced. All hopes rest on the lithium mining companies. Bypassing bureaucratic hurdles, community development projects are arranged directly with Sales de Jujuy and Minera Exar. Additionally, unemployment is less of an issue here than in other parts of Argentina. Today, even people from the provincial capital, San Salvador de Jujuy, are finding jobs in local businesses within the communities. Some of the locally founded service companies that provide outsourced labor to the lithium mining industry have grown significantly, now employing over 100 workers. This represents a striking reversal of past migration patterns—where indigenous workers once sought employment in the cities, urban residents are now moving into the highlands for work.

These economic shifts have led to a generally positive outlook in the communities of the Departament of Susques. However, there are growing concerns about the long-term consequences of this transformation. Many locals fear that the cultural foundation of the region, particularly traditional livestock farming, may eventually be lost. One acquaintance spoke about how economic opportunities had improved significantly but worried that cultural traditions were being sidelined in the process. Ironically, he himself has moved to San Salvador de Jujuy for better educational opportunities for his children and better care for his aging parents. This shows a clear trade-off the communities face in balancing tradition and progress. Moreover, little attention is being paid to the region’s increasing economic dependence on lithium mining. What will happen when the boom ends? That remains an open question—one that few seem willing to confront.

New construction projects in Olaroz Chico and Susques.