This is the second post of my series about our customized 7-day Huayhuash tour from Llámac to Cajatambo. To be able to really go into detail I want to dedicate an individual blog post to each trekking day. In my series, I want to take you with me on this journey alongside the Northern and Eastern flank of the Huayhuash circuit. To get some general information about the Huayhuash Mountain Range, check this post.


First view of Laguna Jahuacocha

After more than eight hours of walking we slept quite well the first night, but the alarm clock rang way too early the next morning. The day started clear and I was excited seeing and photographing the lagoon (due to its location, the place would be better for sunset photography!). After breaking down the camp, we somehow had to get to the Quartelwain camping that day and still were a bit worried due to the miscalculation of the previous day. From Laguna Jahuacocha we walked a plain path alongside the right flank of the lake until we reached Laguna Solteracocha. The crossing to the left path was not that easy so that I would rather recommend taking the left path already in camp.


Laguna Solteracocha

The short climb to Laguna Solteracocha is a must-do. The turquoise color of that lake is certainly incredible and appears even more stunning in view of the enormous glacier of Nevado Jirishanca in the back. This is also the place where the ascend starts. From the second lagoon one has to hike up around 600m of altitude until Paso Rondoy, a pass on 4750m. In spite of an amazing scenery, weather conditions already started to get worse again. Time and time again weather alternated between rain, hail, sleet and sun, so that we intermediately were totally soaked to the skin.


Break with a great panorama of Laguna Solteracocha and the surrounding mountains.


After Paso Rondoy one has to follow a very small footpath to the right. Ten minutes later one reaches a second pass that releases the view to another glacier. In our case, its summit was completely draped in clouds. From that pass one is already able to spot the carretera in the far distance. The way then continuously descends until one finally reaches the logging road. The mapped small lagoon (beautiful outlook) below the glacier is absolutely beyond reach. Thus, the first water source since leaving Laguna Jahuacocha is a creek alongside the carretera. Here, one also finds some scattered traditional houses.


View to a small lagoon after crossing the second pass.


Following the carretera gently uphill for approximately two kilometers one reaches camp Quartelwain. Occasionally a car passes driving north (mostly miners on the way to Huallanca) so that there are some rare possibilities for hitchhiking the last part. Since the beginning of that day we were accompanied by a local dog. On the basis of his hair color, we called him El Gringo. Without any food and without having a drink El Gringo followed us all the way up the pass and almost until the second camp. When we got to the road, we were picked up by some workers so that we finally lost him. I don’t know how far he would have followed us, but he certainly was a very pleasant coeval and cheered us up many times that day.


Camp 2: Quartelwain

The Quartelwain camp provides comparatively good facilities and does not charge you an extra fee (you have to show the 20 Soles receipt from Llámac). We were the only ones around. Behind some rocks we put up our tent and the cooker and enjoyed some noodles with tuna (we tried to get rid of everything heavy the first days). Along the river there are some very beautiful photo spots. Unfortunately, the rain destroyed my ambitious plans for sunrise and sunset…



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